Slick 7 F1 Build

[Mark Fox]

Hi All

I saw this kit on the wall at HSC and decided to rescue it and turn it into a slot-car.

Fairly straight-forward build although care must be taken when bending up the bracket as there is NO room for error to having it fit into the plate slots.

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Apart from being under weight the build comes out really short at 4.75" rear axle to guide post (designed for a King) so it will be interesting to see how she travels on the HSC Big Track.

[SlotBaker]

Looks good Mark, simple and clean build.

Is the Parma Matra an approved body?
I can't see any Parma bodies on the approved list.

Just curious, because I've been looking over the regs, getting my brain back in gear...

[neiljb]

Thanks for sharing.
Nice build. You will have to set up a satellite team to use all the chassis you have.
I like the front wheel set up, no more melted JKs. Short wheelbase........mmm
Steve, the Martra is listed in Marks Regs.
We started using them when the Mclaren became hard to get. It is a nice body and waaaaay easier to mount than the Mclaren. Parma quality means they are the same thickness all the way round. The Outisght is all over the shop.
See you on Sat.

[Mark Fox]

Hi Guys,

Re the body rules:

Is the Parma Matra an approved body?
I can't see any Parma bodies on the approved list.

This body has been on the SCRRA and IRRA approved lists for some time now - see links:-

SCRRA F1
http://www.tsrfcars.com/scrra_f1_legal_bodies_web.htm

IRRA Can-Am, Coupe, F1 and Can-Am Plus
http://www.irraslotracing.com/sitebuild ... y_list.pdf

Steve, the Martra is listed in Marks Regs.
We started using them when the Mclaren became hard to get. It is a nice body and waaaaay easier to mount than the Mclaren. Parma quality means they are the same thickness all the way round. The Outisght is all over the shop.

Our Regs have not been updated (apart from my own efforts to bring it all together with many clarifications and simplifications incorporated after input from all that were interested) for some time. It was during this process that the racers decided to accept bodies sanctioned by SCRRA and IRRA.

Neil's comments on the McLaren are spot on. These bodies are rarely anywhere near the 10 thou thickness and they are a real pain to mount in part due to the body cut-out line is all over the shop and sees to have been put into the mold by someone under the influence (of inaccuracy at least).

[SlotBaker]

Mark,
OK, that's cool.
I was looking at the regs on the Hornsby site, which is what I thought was the "Official" set.
Didn't realise we were working on the US regs, which I'm totally aware of, and like.

Looks like there needs to be some clarification on what's official for racing in the series.
OK, I suppose for regulars, but for newbies, or racers returning, its a bit tricky.

So, does that mean overall wheel width has reverted back to the original spec for Can-Am?

I don't care what the regs are, I just want to be on the same page.

Thanks for the info guys.

[stoo23]

Well there you go,..

Perhaps Strangely, Mark,.. the Last time I was at HSC,.. I was thinking somewhat seriously about purchasing the Very Same Chassis 'Kit',.. almost Just for the 'heck of it',.. but I "Liked" the WIDE Motor Bracket etc,..

Perhaps,.. 'Typically',...

Once again,.. you have 'Beaten' me to it !!,.. LOL,..

Looks Good !!

[Mark Fox]

Hi Steve and Others

It was because of the vagaries of the rules on the HSC site and also the fact that there were no rules for the Retro-Pro class that Wayne was going to run in the Retro "Worlds" that I (at Wayne’s request) did the exercise relating to the rules in all three classes to be run on the King Track.

Wayne recognised that we needed a set of tight regulations if entries were to be coming from international and interstate locations - I offered to do the job and after looking at the HSC (Aussie Retro) SCRRA and IRRA regs and consulting with Aussie Retro Racers in person and via this Forum I came up with: -

http://forum.ascra.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1254

These were the regs that Wayne used at his King Track whilst James maintained the regs as published on HSC web-site.

Having said that, the differences between the two sets of regs are minimal with the main difference being the rear axle/wheel width on the Can-Ams which has historical guff attached to it relating to JK rear wheels being wider (in the main) than Alphas and some chassis were built to Alphas with no scope for moving wider hubs inward - hence the relaxing of the width spec.

I don't believe this is an issue now and personally think that reversion to the 3.125 inch width would be good but it really doesn’t matter.

In reality though James and other racers are very relaxed as to what is allowed to run at HSC Retro races and given that the stated spirit of the class is to have FUN I think that is the right approach. Are we going to hassle if the front wheels on a racers Can-Am measure 7.45 rather than 7.50 - I don't think so. However if the car does not have required clearance or is too wide then it is an issue.

In any event as I was saying - the regs on the HSC site are not updated thus they are not contemporary - for example: -

Regarding CanAm Cars

Reg 5 states (in part): -
Minimum Front Tyre Width: 0.250”

However the front wheels on offer from JK measure 0.225” and thus nearly all CanAm cars are currently illegal via the HSC regs!

Also the Parma TI22 along with other Parma bods are NOT on the authorised list but are being used.

Regarding F1 Cars

Reg 2d states
Minimum Front Tyre width: 0.375"

Nearly all the F1’s being raced have the above-mentioned 0.225 JK fronts and therefore nearly all F1 cars are also illegal via HSC regs!

The Outisight McLaren body which has been used for several years now is also not listed in the approved list - neither should it be in my opinion as many are very flimsy. I have used them also.

In effect at HSC James acts as scrutineer and your car would have to be way out of line to be pulled up for non-compliance – he mainly polices motors, clearance and width and as far as I am concerned that is fine and that helps us all have FUN.

For newbies (if only we had some) and returning racers (please return all of you) I can virtually guarantee you will have no problems with a car that falls within the spirit of the whole thing

[stoo23]

Yep !!

[neiljb]

Well said Mark. More racers = more fun.

[brady]

Hi Marrk,I like the front wheel setup.Makes it a lot easier to adjust with a collar each side of the wheel.Can you tell me,is the axle drill blank or piano wire for length?Thanks Brad. PS The other niight you asked me about trueing tires.Ofcourse you wont have to gind them down much for retro tires.I was thinking flexi sizes at the time.Just a small tip,dont use Kwik-Grip from a tube becuase the stuff separates.Buy a pot so you can stir it up.You will see what I mean when you open the pot.

[Mark Fox]

Hi Brad

I have done a couple of sets of tires and it has worked out OK and I did notice the grinding was not too bad - I ripped off the major portion with a dremal and some 60 grit paper which worked a treat.

a small tip,dont use Kwik-Grip from a tube because the stuff separates.Buy a pot so you can stir it up.You will see what I mean when you open the pot.

Thanks for the tip on the Kwick-Grip - I see what you mean as I have used at the tube

I am using Piano wire for the front axles although I have bent a couple which is never good. I am not sure how long the so-called drill blanks are but I got some the other day but have yet to give them a go. I f you want ant 3/32 piano wire let me know as I have plenty.

Another quick question - what solvent do you use to slide the tire on to the rim when the glue is ready? I used lighter fluid which gave me about 2.2 seconds to get the rim into the tire - do you use something else?

[stoo23]

I think you will find that Automotive 'thinners', works a treat Mark,..

pretty much what Everyone uses

[neiljb]

The tip that I got from Casey and Joe was to use MEK. I think this is what Stoo mentioned as automotive thinners. I got mine through EBay from an auto supply joint. Even though Australia post would probably have a heart attack if they knew what was in the box.
The method described by Casey and Joe is spread the glue on the hub, let it go off for a few minutes, soak the tyre in the MEK, then push the tyre onto the hub. Dry overnight. Hasn't give me any problems.
Neil (aka Mr 171 laps)

[SlotBaker]

Interesting info on mounting donuts.
I've always used plain old turps with tuna donuts on my flexi cars, and it gives plenty of time to center the tyre and get it pretty even on the hub.
Worth a try.

[Mark Fox]

Thanks Guys

I think I will try the turps first as I don't have any of the other stuff (hint, hint if anybody can help out with some in a jar here I will be grateful ).

As far as the chassis goes I gave it a quick trial on the HSC Big Track the other night and it is quick - best of 5.592 which is the quickest F1 lap in BTR (the fastest I have on record is Joe with 5.63 last November round of BTR).

It was light so I made the following mods: -

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About right now

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